Dimethicone is the most popular silicone. It makes the skin softer and forms a film adding smooth and silky feeling. This film not only improves how the skin feels but also works as a protective barrier. It also improves the visual appearance of your skin by filling small wrinkles. That's why some people think dimethicone removes wrinkles. Actually, it does not. It's just a visual effect.
One of the most important characteristics of this component is that it helps to spread other ingredients evenly on the surface to provide good coverage. It's very important because you want all your skin cells to receive an equal proportion of the components.
Dimethicone is considered as safe, but remember that it is rather difficult to wash off! This may lead to clogged pores and acne if you use it too often and don't wash off quite well.
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Water
Roles: Solvent
Water is a great solvent. It’s neutral and doesn’t provide any strong positive or negative effects. It just helps components to mix better and to transport active components.
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Zinc Oxide (9.93%)
Roles: Bulking, Colorant
UV Protection
Antiseptic
Comedogenic rating [ 1 ]
Good for oily skin
Zinc Oxide is a great physical sunscreen, meaning it deflects the UV rays. It’s the only natural mineral sun protector recommended by the FDA for babies. It’s good for sensitive skin because it’s less irritating than chemical sunscreens.
It has very nice spectrum protection. It helps to protect from UVA I, UVA II, and UVB and nowadays it’s the broadest range of sunscreen used in cosmetics. In other words, it’s brilliant in its league.
The negative side is that it can feel heavy on the skin. It can leave a slight whitish tint on the surface of the skin and some people may not like this. Keep in mind that it’s relatively easy to wash off, so it’s better to use water-resistant sunscreens if you are swimming.
Cyclopentasiloxane is a fluid silicone. It’s non-greasy and doesn’t have any scent or color. It evaporates pretty fast which makes this ingredient essential when it comes to making products that have to dry quickly. It also gives a nice silky feeling when you apply the product to the skin and hair. It leaves a thin film that protects the skin after evaporation.
Cyclopentasiloxane is chemically neutral, meaning it doesn’t react with other components.
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Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Roles: Film former, Viscosity controlling
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Diisopropyl Sebacate
Roles: Skin conditioning, Emollient, Solvent
Softening
Hair conditioning
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Talc
Roles: Abrasive, Anticaking, Bulking
UV Protection
Softening
Comedogenic rating [ 1 ]
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Isododecane
Roles: Emollient, Fragrance, Solvent
Softening
Isododecane is an emollient and a good base for colorants. Very often used in powders and shades because it spreads on the skin nicely. It also helps to soften the skin and helps to lower water loss making all the moisturizing components work better.
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Ethylhexyl Salicylate (3%)
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Octocrylene (3%)
UV Protection
Octocrylene is an organic chemical sunscreen. It protects against UVA and UVB rays that can damage your skin or even lead to melanoma. It also stabilizes other sunscreen ingredients in a formulation and increases the water resistance of a product. It is approved by the FDA in concentrations of up to 10%. It’s not a very effective component on its own, that’s why manufacturers combine it with other chemical sunscreens.
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PEG/PPG-9/2 Dimethyl Ether
Roles: Skin conditioning
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Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (2%)
UV Protection
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Titanium Dioxide
Roles: Colorant
UV Protection
Titanium Dioxide is a very effective sunscreen. It belongs to physical sunscreens, meaning it reflects the UV rays like a mirror. The component is a mineral with white color. That’s why it’s also used in different powders as a pigment or brightener.
The component can be both safe and unsafe. It’s reported to be possibly carcinogenic to humans when inhaled. That’s why we don’t recommend using products where TiO2 is used in the form of powder and can be inhaled.
Sometimes it can be a nanoparticle. We recommend avoiding this form because it’s not researched well enough. A safer option is to use a non-nano form.
Glycerin is one of the most outstanding and helpful skincare components. It's used in many skincare products because it works and provides notable results. It's one of the best moisturizers. Molecules of Glycerin can absorb water and deliver it into deep layers of the skin making it hydrated.
Silica is used for improving texture of the product. It helps the product to spread out evenly. Very often it’s used in different exfoliants as an abrasive. It's safe and non-toxic.
Stearic Acid doesn’t belong to aggressive acids. It’s a fatty acid that can be found in Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, and many natural butters and oils. The component is mostly used for formulation purposes. It makes the product spread and feel better. It’s one of the most important fatty acids in our skin cells.
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Aminomethyl Propanediol
Roles: Buffering, Fragrance
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Hydrogen Dimethicone
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Trisodium EDTA
Roles: Chelating
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PEG-6
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Distearyldimonium Chloride
Roles: Antistatic, Hair conditioning
Antistatic
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Fragrance
Roles: Deodorant, Fragrance, Masking
Fragrances
Fragrance is a mix of chemical ingredients (usually 20-30 chemicals but up to 200 sometimes) that help the product to smell better. It can hide many bad things. Synthetic fragrances may contain many different chemicals, but manufacturers don’t want to reveal each of them for some reason and hide them behind the word "Fragrance".
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BHTAntioxidant
Roles: Fragrance, Masking
BHT is a stabilizer and antioxidant. It helps to keep the product fresh for a long time, preventing the oxidization of components. It is stable even in high temperatures, that’s why it’s an essential component in some products. It also protects the skin from free radicals. As for safety, the component isn't researched very well. It’s considered to be safe in low concentrations. But there is still not enough scientific data collected.
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TocopherolAntioxidant
Roles: Skin conditioning, Fragrance
UV Protection
Anti-aging
Regeneration
Comedogenic rating [ 3 ]
Good for dry skin
Tocopherol is one of the most popular active ingredients in cosmetics. It’s a brilliant component. It's a form of Vitamin E and it does help the skin and hair a lot. It conditions the skin, strengthens its barrier, protects it against harm, and makes the tone even. It also helps your skin and hair to resist the sun. It’s safe but can irritate sensitive skin sometimes. Pay attention to concentration!
Butylene Glycol is a very popular synthetic alcohol. It helps the product to absorb deeper and faster. It is also a solvent for other ingredients. As for the skin benefits, it helps to attract water and helps to make the skin softer.
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Limonene
Roles: Fragrance
Antiseptic
Allergens
Limonene provides a nice and fresh citrus scent. It can be found in many plants. It's used in cosmetics because of its low price and pleasant smell.
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PEG/ppg-4/2
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Dimethyl Ether
Roles: Solvent, Viscosity controlling
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Linalool
Roles: Deodorant, Fragrance, Masking
Allergens
Linalool gives the product a nice and fresh lavender scent. It can be found in many essential oils. It oxidizes during air exposure and becomes allergenic. It can lead to irritation causing problems for people with sensitive skin. The threat is even higher if the product was opened several months ago. In such products, more Linalool is oxidized.
Citronellol makes the product smell better. It’s one of the most frequently used fragrance ingredients in the world. It smells like a fresh cut of apple peel mixed with a citrus scent. It’s also used to enhance flower scent. It has slight anti-bacterial activity.
Beware! This component is in the list of potential allergens and can cause allergic contact dermatitis.
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Hexyl Cinnamal
Roles: Fragrance, Masking
Allergens
Hexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance component that gives the product pleasant cinnamon and light jasmine aroma. It’s also used to enhance other fragrances. It’s considered a skin sensitizer and manufacturers have to call out this component on an ingredient statement.
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Iron Oxides
Roles: Colorant
Moisturizing
Iron Oxides are colorants. They give different colors to the product: yellow, red, or black. Different scientific researches show that they are much safer than other organic colorants. That's because they are much more stable and they don’t provoke allergic reactions. Though they can be received from minerals organically, manufacturers don’t use natural Iron Oxides. They chemically synthesize them in a laboratory to get a pure component without extra chemicals.
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Sodium Metabisulfite
Roles: Preservative
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Citral
Roles: Flavoring, Fragrance, Masking
Allergens
Citral is a fragrance component responsible for a fresh citrus scent. It’s used as a masking agent to hide unpleasant aromas. Unfortunately, it’s considered to be an allergen and it is one of the 26 fragrances that have to be labeled separately in the European Union. Pay attention to this component if you have sensitive skin.
Green Tea Leaf Extract is a great antioxidant often used in Korean skincare products. It contains EGCG - the most effective flavonoid. It makes the skin look fresh, fills it with vitamines, and helps to prevent aging. It also helps to lower inflammation.
