Water is a great solvent. It’s neutral and doesn’t provide any strong positive or negative effects. It just helps components to mix better and to transport active components.
2
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Roles: Skin conditioning, Viscosity controlling
UV Protection
Moisturizing
Anti-aging
Malassezia unsafe
Shea Butter is a great natural moisturizer everybody knows about. And it’s popular for a reason. It contains 5 essential fatty acids (palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, and arachidonic), vitamins (A, D, E, F), and catechins, which are antioxidants. It moisturizes the skin and protects it from UV, cold, and other negative factors. It can be used on its own and will not harm your skin even in very high concentrations.
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil is a great vegetable oil to counter dryness. It reduces inflammation and it’s a very nice ingredient for people with redness, eczema, and rosacea. It’s accepted very well by humans skin because its chemical structure is very similar to sebum. That’s why it will hardly provoke any allergy. It’s a very good helper for people with dry skin.
4
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Roles: Skin conditioning, Fragrance
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient that also hydrates the skin without leaving a fatty film. When applied, the component feels smooth and light. In haircare products, it’s also used for hydrating purposes. It makes hair silky, lowers tangling, and makes hair smooth.
It’s safe for most people, except for people with allergic reactions to coconut or palm oil because these oils are usually used for producing the component.
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil is an ingredient known from ancient times. It’s the oil people receive from Sunflower Seeds and use for different purposes, including cooking. It contains a lot of Lenoic acid which moisturizes the skin, makes it softer, and reduces inflammation. The oil also works as an occlusive agent that forms a protective film and helps to keep skin hydrated.
As for haircare, it’s the second most popular basic oil used in haircare products. It helps to lower hair fragility and make hair softer.
Avocado oil is a natural ingredient with an excellent rejuvenating and moisturizing effect. It's so effective because it contains a lot of squalene - a very strong chemical that protects the skin and helps to keep it hydrated. It's also a nice antioxidant that helps to slower aging. Avocado oil also contains different vitamins (A, B, E), lecithin, and beta-carotene.
Glycerin is one of the most outstanding and helpful skincare components. It's used in many skincare products because it works and provides notable results. It's one of the best moisturizers. Molecules of Glycerin can absorb water and deliver it into deep layers of the skin making it hydrated.
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Propanediol
Roles: Solvent, Viscosity controlling
Moisturizing
Hair conditioning
Propanediol is a good solvent, emollient and humectant. It helps to moisturize the skin and prevent moisture loss. In haircare products, it conditions hair and improves absorption of the product.
Behenyl Alcohol is an emulsifier. It makes the product feel softer and more pleasant to touch. It also provides an anti-inflammation effect. Made of natural ingredients and can be seen in organic products a lot.
Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil is a great natural ingredient rich with Vitamin E and Vitamin A. It’s an antioxidant that helps to slower aging, recover elasticity and slower wrinkle forming. It makes the skin softer, smooth and lowers inflammation. In antient times people used Olive Oil for healing wounds.
18
Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil
19
Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Oil
Roles: Fragrance, Masking
20
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil
Roles: Skin conditioning, Fragrance
Acne fighting
Healing
Antiseptic
Good for oily skin
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil is known for ages. It has a pleasant scent but it's not the only great property of this component. It has great antiseptic and antibacterial activity which is great for oily skin. It also helps to heal small wounds and calm down the skin.
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is an organic herbal extract derived from Rosemary. It contains a lot of useful chemicals like rosmarinic acid, caffeic acid, betulinic acid, carnosic acid, ursolic acid, carnosol, and camphor. These chemicals help the ingredient to lower inflammation, kill bacteria and fungus, and decrease pain. It’s a great antioxidant to counter signs of aging. It helps tighten the skin and improves elasticity. It also helps to get rid of small wrinkles and fine lines.
25
Phoenix Dactylifera (Date) Fruit Extract
Roles: Emollient
26
Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Oil
Roles: Fragrance, Masking
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Phytosterols
Roles: Skin conditioning
28
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Roles: Emulsifying, Fragrance, Surfactant
Cleansing
Soothing
Malassezia unsafe
PEG
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil helps ingredients to mix better. It has nice cleansing activity helping to remove sebum and dirt from the surface of your skin. It's also responsible for making soft foam in soaps, shower gels, etc. Despite it having "PEG" in the title, it's considered to be safe.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a form of Vitamine E. It’s used as an alternative to Tocopherol because it is more stable in the formulation. It has all the positive effects of Tocopherol plus better stability. It’s a brilliant component. It conditions and nourishes the skin helping it to resist aging. It also helps to protect the skin from the sun. High concentrations of Tocopheryl Acetate can lead to irritation and allergic reactions.
35
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols
Roles: Skin conditioning, Emollient
36
Ethylhexylglycerin
Roles: Skin conditioning, Deodorant
Moisturizing
Softening
Antiseptic
Deodorant
Ethylhexylglycerin makes the skin softer, smoother and more hydrated. It acts deeply but without any heavy or sticky feeling. In haircare products, it works as a conditioner and scalp cleanser. It is safe but only in concentration below 8% in rinse-off products and below 2% in leave-on products. Can be an irritator in higher concentrations. In general, this component is great if you see it somewhere at the bottom of the list.
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TocopherolAntioxidant
Roles: Skin conditioning, Fragrance
UV Protection
Anti-aging
Regeneration
Comedogenic rating [ 3 ]
Good for dry skin
Tocopherol is one of the most popular active ingredients in cosmetics. It’s a brilliant component. It's a form of Vitamin E and it does help the skin and hair a lot. It conditions the skin, strengthens its barrier, protects it against harm, and makes the tone even. It also helps your skin and hair to resist the sun. It’s safe but can irritate sensitive skin sometimes. Pay attention to concentration!
Roles: Emulsion stabilizer, Film former, Viscosity controlling
AcrylatesC10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic non-toxic gel used mostly for formulation purposes. It helps manufacturers to achieve the necessary texture of the product (it makes the product thicker). It also has sight healing and antistatic activity.
40
Avobenzone
UV Protection
Avobenzone is the only chemical UV-protection component with a broad spectrum coverage. It can help to block both UVA I and UVA II rays. It's safe and it is allowed to use at a 3% concentration in the USA and a 5% concentration in the EU countries.
There is one problem: avobenzone loses efficiency when exposed to the sun. If you are outside, it loses 36% of its ability to block UV rays an hour after application. That's why it's recommended to reapply sunscreen every 2 hours.
Butylene Glycol is a very popular synthetic alcohol. It helps the product to absorb deeper and faster. It is also a solvent for other ingredients. As for the skin benefits, it helps to attract water and helps to make the skin softer.
Xanthan Gum is used as a thickener or rheology modifier and emulsion stabilizer. It doesn’t provide any notable skin-related effects and is used mostly for formulation purposes. It makes the product’s texture smooth and even. It’s a naturally-derived thickener. Notable fact: it can also be found in the food you eat every day, so it is 100% safe.
45
Carbomer
Roles: Emulsion stabilizer, Gel forming, Viscosity controlling
Moisturizing
Carbomer is used for formulation purposes. It helps to control the viscosity and flow of a product. It’s considered safe but only if it’s well purified. Poorly purified carbomers may contain benzol which may lead to irritation.
46
Sodium Hydroxide
Roles: Buffering
Sodium Hydroxide is used mostly for formulation purposes. It helps to hold the pH level of a product. It also works as a chemical exfoliator that removes dead cells. Usually concentration of this component is low in skin care products and it’s used mostly for adjusting pH.
47
Tetrasodium EDTA
Roles: Chelating
Tetrasodium EDTA is a formulation component. It is a pH adjuster and chelate. It prevents other components from reacting with each other making the product live longer.
48
Fragrance
Roles: Deodorant, Fragrance, Masking
Fragrances
Fragrance is a mix of chemical ingredients (usually 20-30 chemicals but up to 200 sometimes) that help the product to smell better. It can hide many bad things. Synthetic fragrances may contain many different chemicals, but manufacturers don’t want to reveal each of them for some reason and hide them behind the word "Fragrance".
49
Phenoxyethanol
Roles: Fragrance, Preservative
Antiseptic
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most popular preservatives. It kills bacteria and makes the product live longer. Manufacturers like this ingredient because it can dissolve in any liquid, even in oils.
Another purpose of this component is the fixation of aromas in perfumery. Phenoxyethanol is also used as a strong antiseptic and a good antibacterial agent. It is widely used in dermatological cosmetics alongside natural antiseptics such as chamomile, sage, and calendula.
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Sodium Benzoate
Roles: Fragrance, Masking, Preservative
Antifungal
Antiseptic
Sodium Benzoate doesn’t have any great skincare effects and is used for formulation purposes. It’s a corrosion inhibitor, fragrance ingredient, and preservative. It is not a broad-spectrum preservative and it’s used with other preservatives for good efficiency. It’s safe, but people with eczema or a history of skin allergies should use this component with attention.
51
Farnesol
Roles: Deodorant, Fragrance, Masking, Solvent
Acne fighting
Antifungal
Antiseptic
Deodorant
Anti dandruff
Allergens
52
Linalool
Roles: Deodorant, Fragrance, Masking
Allergens
Linalool gives the product a nice and fresh lavender scent. It can be found in many essential oils. It oxidizes during air exposure and becomes allergenic. It can lead to irritation causing problems for people with sensitive skin. The threat is even higher if the product was opened several months ago. In such products, more Linalool is oxidized.
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Benzyl Salicylate
Roles: Fragrance, Masking
UV Protection
Allergens
Benzyl Salicylate is a fragrance component with a pleasant flower odor. It can be an allergy trigger and should be used carefully. Pay attention to this ingredient in a formulation if you have sensitive skin or if you have an allergy.
54
Citronellol
Roles: Fragrance, Masking
Allergens
Citronellol makes the product smell better. It’s one of the most frequently used fragrance ingredients in the world. It smells like a fresh cut of apple peel mixed with a citrus scent. It’s also used to enhance flower scent. It has slight anti-bacterial activity.
Beware! This component is in the list of potential allergens and can cause allergic contact dermatitis.
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Limonene
Roles: Fragrance
Antiseptic
Allergens
Limonene provides a nice and fresh citrus scent. It can be found in many plants. It's used in cosmetics because of its low price and pleasant smell.
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Geraniol
Roles: Fragrance, Masking
Allergens
Geraniol is a fragrance ingredient that gives product a nice rose scent. That’s why it’s used by many manufacturers. In addition to its pleasant scent, it also provides an antifungal effect increasing the shelf life of a product. There are several ways of obtaining this ingredient but all of them are chemical.
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Benzyl Benzoate
Roles: Antimicrobial, Fragrance, Masking, Solvent
Allergens
Benzyl Benzoate is a potentially harmful fragrance ingredient. It's one of the “EU 26 fragrances” that has to be labeled separately because of allergen potential. It's a good idea to avoid this component if you have sensitive skin.