Water is a great solvent. It’s neutral and doesn’t provide any strong positive or negative effects. It just helps components to mix better and to transport active components.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a pH 4.5-5.5 liquid that is used to improve the overall efficiency of the formulation. It’s usually combined with different surfactants and is used because of its cleansing efficiency. It helps to remove sebum and dirt from the skin and hair. It also works as a foaming agent helping to make a pleasant foam.
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Decyl Glucoside
Roles: Cleansing, Emulsion stabilizer, Surfactant
Cleansing
Decyl glucoside is a surfactant. It provides degreasing and wetting effects. It removes dirt and sebum gently. It doesn’t irritate the skin but at the same time, it’s an effective cleanser. It’s considered to be the safest among all the other surfactants.
Glycerin is one of the most outstanding and helpful skincare components. It's used in many skincare products because it works and provides notable results. It's one of the best moisturizers. Molecules of Glycerin can absorb water and deliver it into deep layers of the skin making it hydrated.
Lactic Acid is the most popular and the least aggressive acid among all the AHAs. Unlike Salicylic and Glycolic acids which can irritate your skin, Lactic Acid will hardly cause any problems. The combination of its soft action and effectiveness makes it a real brilliant. It exfoliates dead cells, makes the skin tone even, clears pores, kills bacteria, moisturizes the skin and helps to keep water, helps the cells to produce Hyaluronic Acid. It also works as a strong antioxidant and anti-aging component.
It's a great acid for getting familiar with the world of AHAs. If you want to start using "fruit acids" but struggling for some reason, try to use Lactic Acid first. If your skin accepts it well, you can try stronger acids.
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Propanediol
Roles: Solvent, Viscosity controlling
Moisturizing
Hair conditioning
Propanediol is a good solvent, emollient and humectant. It helps to moisturize the skin and prevent moisture loss. In haircare products, it conditions hair and improves absorption of the product.
Salicylic Acid is an amazing component for oily skin. It’s a famous BHA that chemically exfoliates dead cells, kills bacteria, and prevents acne. It works as a strong pores cleanser. AHAs are not effective for removing sebum from pores, while BHAs are leaders in this space. Salicylic Acid also helps to shrink pores, remove acne scars and make skin tone even. Pay attention: concentration matters! This ingredient is rather aggressive. It can lead to irritation in high concentrations. If your skin has never seen this component before test the product first.
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Phenoxyethanol
Roles: Fragrance, Preservative
Antiseptic
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most popular preservatives. It kills bacteria and makes the product live longer. Manufacturers like this ingredient because it can dissolve in any liquid, even in oils.
Another purpose of this component is the fixation of aromas in perfumery. Phenoxyethanol is also used as a strong antiseptic and a good antibacterial agent. It is widely used in dermatological cosmetics alongside natural antiseptics such as chamomile, sage, and calendula.
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Sodium Hydroxide
Roles: Buffering
Sodium Hydroxide is used mostly for formulation purposes. It helps to hold the pH level of a product. It also works as a chemical exfoliator that removes dead cells. Usually concentration of this component is low in skin care products and it’s used mostly for adjusting pH.
Stearic Acid doesn’t belong to aggressive acids. It’s a fatty acid that can be found in Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, and many natural butters and oils. The component is mostly used for formulation purposes. It makes the product spread and feel better. It’s one of the most important fatty acids in our skin cells.
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Disodium EDTA
Roles: Chelating, Viscosity controlling
Disodium EDTA is an emulsion stabilizer and chelating agent. It deactivates the metal ions preventing them from reacting with other active ingredients. It improves the stability of a cosmetic formula and keeps the product’s consistency, texture, and pH unchanged. It doesn’t have any skincare effects and is used for formulation purposes only.
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Benzoyl Peroxide
Roles: Antiacne, Oxidizing
Cleansing
Acne fighting
Bad for dry skin
Benzoyl peroxide is a well-known and widely used topical medication in skincare, particularly favored for its effectiveness in treating acne. Here are several key aspects of benzoyl peroxide in skincare:
Antibacterial Properties: Benzoyl peroxide is highly effective against Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes), the bacteria that contribute to acne. It works by introducing oxygen into the pores, where this bacteria thrives, as it cannot live in an oxygen-rich environment. This reduces the bacterial count on the skin, thereby decreasing acne outbreaks.
Keratolytic Action: It helps to break down keratin, a protein that forms part of the skin structure. This action helps to unclog pores by clearing dead skin cells, excess oil, and other debris that can lead to acne.
Comedolytic Effect: Benzoyl peroxide is effective in preventing the formation of comedones (acne lesions), which include both blackheads and whiteheads. This is accomplished through its ability to decrease the cohesiveness of the epithelial cells lining the hair follicles, preventing them from clogging.
Anti-inflammatory Properties: Benzoyl peroxide reduces the inflammation associated with acne. It can help lessen the redness and swelling of active acne, providing a more immediate cosmetic benefit while the treatment works to clear the acne long-term.
Concentration Variations: It is available in various concentrations, typically ranging from 2.5% to 10%. Lower concentrations are just as effective as higher concentrations but tend to be less irritating to the skin. Choosing the right concentration and formulation (such as lotions, gels, creams, or wash-off products) depends on skin sensitivity and the severity of acne.
Potential Side Effects: Common side effects include dryness, redness, peeling, and irritation, particularly when first using the product or if used in higher concentrations. It's important for users to start with lower concentrations and gradually increase as needed, and to always use moisturizers and sun protection to help manage these side effects.
Use in Combination Therapies: Often, benzoyl peroxide is used in combination with other acne treatments, such as retinoids or antibiotics, to enhance efficacy and reduce the potential for antibiotic resistance when used with antibacterial agents.
When incorporating benzoyl peroxide into a skincare regimen, it's crucial for users to apply it only to clean, dry skin and to follow application with a non-comedogenic moisturizer to counteract potential drying effects. Furthermore, because benzoyl peroxide can bleach fabrics, users should be cautious with contact between the medication and clothing, towels, or bedding.
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Methylchloroisothiazolinone
Roles: Preservative
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Methylisothiazolinone
Roles: Preservative
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Fragrance
Roles: Deodorant, Fragrance, Masking
Fragrances
Fragrance is a mix of chemical ingredients (usually 20-30 chemicals but up to 200 sometimes) that help the product to smell better. It can hide many bad things. Synthetic fragrances may contain many different chemicals, but manufacturers don’t want to reveal each of them for some reason and hide them behind the word "Fragrance".
