Water is a great solvent. It’s neutral and doesn’t provide any strong positive or negative effects. It just helps components to mix better and to transport active components.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a pH 4.5-5.5 liquid that is used to improve the overall efficiency of the formulation. It’s usually combined with different surfactants and is used because of its cleansing efficiency. It helps to remove sebum and dirt from the skin and hair. It also works as a foaming agent helping to make a pleasant foam.
Glycerin is one of the most outstanding and helpful skincare components. It's used in many skincare products because it works and provides notable results. It's one of the best moisturizers. Molecules of Glycerin can absorb water and deliver it into deep layers of the skin making it hydrated.
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Decyl Glucoside
Roles: Cleansing, Emulsion stabilizer, Surfactant
Cleansing
Decyl glucoside is a surfactant. It provides degreasing and wetting effects. It removes dirt and sebum gently. It doesn’t irritate the skin but at the same time, it’s an effective cleanser. It’s considered to be the safest among all the other surfactants.
Roles: Antistatic, Binding, Film former, Hair fixative
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Propanediol
Roles: Solvent, Viscosity controlling
Moisturizing
Hair conditioning
Propanediol is a good solvent, emollient and humectant. It helps to moisturize the skin and prevent moisture loss. In haircare products, it conditions hair and improves absorption of the product.
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Sodium Chloride
Roles: Flavoring, Viscosity controlling
Antiseptic
Sodium Chloride is a very famous ingredeint also known as Salt. Yes, it’s the same salt you can find on your table. In cosmetics, it is used as a preservative helping the product to live longer. It is also used as a peeling agent in different scrubs. Human contact with this element since ancient times and that's why it is 100% safe.
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Charcoal Powder
Roles: Abrasive, Colorant
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GluconolactoneAntioxidantPHA
Roles: Fragrance, Humectant, Solvent
Moisturizing
Acne fighting
Lifting
Gluconolactone belongs to poly hydroxy acids (PHA). It’s very similar to AHAs chemically, that’s why it is usually presented as a «Next Generation AHA». It has all the benefits of AHA but it doesn’t irritate the skin. It’s a strong natural antioxidant which is as strong as Tocopherol or Ascorbic Acid.
Salicylic Acid is an amazing component for oily skin. It’s a famous BHA that chemically exfoliates dead cells, kills bacteria, and prevents acne. It works as a strong pores cleanser. AHAs are not effective for removing sebum from pores, while BHAs are leaders in this space. Salicylic Acid also helps to shrink pores, remove acne scars and make skin tone even. Pay attention: concentration matters! This ingredient is rather aggressive. It can lead to irritation in high concentrations. If your skin has never seen this component before test the product first.
Lactic Acid is the most popular and the least aggressive acid among all the AHAs. Unlike Salicylic and Glycolic acids which can irritate your skin, Lactic Acid will hardly cause any problems. The combination of its soft action and effectiveness makes it a real brilliant. It exfoliates dead cells, makes the skin tone even, clears pores, kills bacteria, moisturizes the skin and helps to keep water, helps the cells to produce Hyaluronic Acid. It also works as a strong antioxidant and anti-aging component.
It's a great acid for getting familiar with the world of AHAs. If you want to start using "fruit acids" but struggling for some reason, try to use Lactic Acid first. If your skin accepts it well, you can try stronger acids.
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Citric AcidAntioxidantAHA
Roles: Buffering, Chelating, Fragrance, Masking
Cleansing
Exfoliating
Soothing
Lightening
Lifting
Hair growth stimulating
Citric Acid is one of the AHAs and it is a super useful component! It’s a great antioxidant. It acts as a soft peeling that removes dead cells and kills bacteria. It becomes even more effective if used with other cosmetic acids. Combined formulations are more active, but can irritate sensitive skin if used too often. The component can also whiten the skin and remove dark areas.
It can be an irritator due to its naturally lower pH level of 2.2. But manufacturers also use it as a pH adjuster so in most cases you will not have any issues.
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Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
Roles: Fragrance
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Saccharide Isomerate
Roles: Humectant
Moisturizing
Hair conditioning
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Fragrance
Roles: Deodorant, Fragrance, Masking
Fragrances
Fragrance is a mix of chemical ingredients (usually 20-30 chemicals but up to 200 sometimes) that help the product to smell better. It can hide many bad things. Synthetic fragrances may contain many different chemicals, but manufacturers don’t want to reveal each of them for some reason and hide them behind the word "Fragrance".
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Sodium Hydroxide
Roles: Buffering
Sodium Hydroxide is used mostly for formulation purposes. It helps to hold the pH level of a product. It also works as a chemical exfoliator that removes dead cells. Usually concentration of this component is low in skin care products and it’s used mostly for adjusting pH.
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Menthol
Roles: Flavoring, Fragrance, Masking
Good for oily skin
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Disodium EDTA
Roles: Chelating, Viscosity controlling
Disodium EDTA is an emulsion stabilizer and chelating agent. It deactivates the metal ions preventing them from reacting with other active ingredients. It improves the stability of a cosmetic formula and keeps the product’s consistency, texture, and pH unchanged. It doesn’t have any skincare effects and is used for formulation purposes only.
Castor Seed Oil is a cosmetic ingredient people know and use from ancient times. It was used in ancient Egypt for eyebrow and hair care. It’s a great moisturizer for people with dry skin. It helps to reduce small wrinkles and recover damaged skin. It fights bacteria and can be used to lower acne inflammation.
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Sodium Dehydroacetate
Roles: Preservative
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Sodium Citrate
Roles: Buffering, Chelating, Masking
Sodium Citrate is a water-soluble soft organic surfactant with strong stabilizing and conditioning effects. It helps to produce foam and lowers the negative impact of hard water on your skin and hair. It also helps to regulate the pH level of the product. It’s a natural ingredient and it’s safe for most people. It’s used in food (additive number E331).
