Water is a great solvent. It’s neutral and doesn’t provide any strong positive or negative effects. It just helps components to mix better and to transport active components.
Cyclopentasiloxane is a fluid silicone. It’s non-greasy and doesn’t have any scent or color. It evaporates pretty fast which makes this ingredient essential when it comes to making products that have to dry quickly. It also gives a nice silky feeling when you apply the product to the skin and hair. It leaves a thin film that protects the skin after evaporation.
Cyclopentasiloxane is chemically neutral, meaning it doesn’t react with other components.
Cetearyl Alcohol is used mostly for formulation purposes. It’s a very good emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer. It helps the ingredients mix better and it makes the product spread on your skin evenly. It also makes the product thicker. It doesn’t belong to harmful alcohols and it will not dry your skin.
Dipropylene Glycol is a solvent, emulsifier, viscosity decreasing, and masking agent. It helps to extract useful chemicals from plants and leaves, making natural components in a product more effective. It also helps to hydrate the skin. Considered safe for health and doesn't irritate the skin in common concentration.
Propylene Glycol is a useful componet with many positive effects. It’s a very good moisturizer. It helps to deliver ingredients into deeper layers of the skin. It creates a protective layer on the skin preventing water loss. The component is researched very well and doesn’t have notable side effects. It’s used even for making food.
Cetrimonium Chloride is used mostly for formulation purposes and doesn't provide any strong skincare effects. Used mostly to help mix different components together. It also helps to increase the shelf life of the product. CIR safety report tells that this ingredient was found to be “…safe for use in rinse‐off products and …safe for use at concentrations of up to 0.25% in leave‐on products.”
In the European Union (EU), cetrimonium chloride and steartrimonium chloride were reported to be used as a preservative at up to 0.1%. They are also used in rinse-off hair care products at up to 2.5%, leave-on hair products at up to 1.0%, and in leave-on facial cream products at up to 0.5%.
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Fragrance
Roles: Deodorant, Fragrance, Masking
Fragrances
Fragrance is a mix of chemical ingredients (usually 20-30 chemicals but up to 200 sometimes) that help the product to smell better. It can hide many bad things. Synthetic fragrances may contain many different chemicals, but manufacturers don’t want to reveal each of them for some reason and hide them behind the word "Fragrance".
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Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax
Roles: Skin conditioning, Emollient, Emulsion stabilizer, Film former, Viscosity controlling
Alcohol Denatured is a great bacteria killer. Manufacturers often put it inside products to increase their shelf life.
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Polysilicone-29
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Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil
Roles: Skin conditioning
Comedogenic rating [ 3 ]
Bad for oily skin
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Xylityl Sesquicaprylate
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Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone
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Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil
Roles: Skin conditioning
Malassezia unsafe
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Persea Gratissima (Avocado) OilAntioxidant
Roles: Skin conditioning
Moisturizing
Softening
Soothing
Anti-aging
Nutrifying
Regeneration
Hair follicle nutrition
Comedogenic rating [ 3 ]
Good for dry skin
Bad for oily skin
Avocado oil is a natural ingredient with an excellent rejuvenating and moisturizing effect. It's so effective because it contains a lot of squalene - a very strong chemical that protects the skin and helps to keep it hydrated. It's also a nice antioxidant that helps to slower aging. Avocado oil also contains different vitamins (A, B, E), lecithin, and beta-carotene.
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Glyceryl Linoleate
Roles: Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant
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Glyceryl Linolenate
Roles: Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant
Softening
Soothing
Hair conditioning
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Tocopheryl AcetateVitaminsAntioxidant
Roles: Skin conditioning
Softening
Nutrifying
Tocopheryl Acetate is a form of Vitamine E. It’s used as an alternative to Tocopherol because it is more stable in the formulation. It has all the positive effects of Tocopherol plus better stability. It’s a brilliant component. It conditions and nourishes the skin helping it to resist aging. It also helps to protect the skin from the sun. High concentrations of Tocopheryl Acetate can lead to irritation and allergic reactions.
Lecithin is a great emulsifier. It also has slight antioxidant activity, but it’s not enough if you are looking for a strong and effective anti-oxidant. Our skin cells contain Lecithin and that’s why this component will hardly cause any problems or negative reactions. It soaks in pretty fast and it’s accepted by skin cells very well.
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Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Roles: Skin conditioning, Fragrance
UV Protection
Moisturizing
Softening
Soothing
Hair strengthening
Hair growth stimulating
Malassezia unsafe
Good for dry skin
Bad for oily skin
Sweet Almond Oil is rich in Vitamin D, Vitamin E, and different minerals. It’s a very effective soothing component known from ancient times. It helps to protect the skin from the sun, make it softer and heal small wounds.
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Zea Mays Oil
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Anhydroxylitol
Roles: Skin conditioning, Humectant
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Phospholipids
Roles: Skin conditioning
Good for dry skin
Phospholipids help to hydrate the skin and recover the lipid balance. If the skin lacks this component it can become dry. The component makes cell membranes more difficult to damage and this affects the overall health of the skin.
Glycolic Acid is the most researched AHA with proven efficiency and it’s a super powerful component. It’s a great exfoliator, meaning it helps to remove dead skin cells preventing bacterial growth, and make your skin look fresh and smooth. It helps to remove dark spots and areas, making skin tone even. But the most serious reason for using this component is that it helps to produce collagen, which is very important for keeping your skin healthy. This is what makes Glycolic Acid so special. Pay attention, that using any AHA makes your skin more UV sensitive. It’s very important to use good sunscreen after applying AHA.
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Methicone
Roles: Skin conditioning, Antistatic, Emollient
Silicones
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Carbocysteine
Roles: Skin conditioning
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Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Roles: Skin conditioning, Antistatic, Film former, Hair conditioning
Moisturizing
Softening
Hair strengthening
Hair structure improvement
Hair gloss
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Polyquaternium-10
Roles: Antistatic, Film former, Hair fixative
Softening
Antistatic
Hair conditioning
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BHTAntioxidant
Roles: Fragrance, Masking
BHT is a stabilizer and antioxidant. It helps to keep the product fresh for a long time, preventing the oxidization of components. It is stable even in high temperatures, that’s why it’s an essential component in some products. It also protects the skin from free radicals. As for safety, the component isn't researched very well. It’s considered to be safe in low concentrations. But there is still not enough scientific data collected.
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Phenoxyethanol
Roles: Fragrance, Preservative
Antiseptic
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most popular preservatives. It kills bacteria and makes the product live longer. Manufacturers like this ingredient because it can dissolve in any liquid, even in oils.
Another purpose of this component is the fixation of aromas in perfumery. Phenoxyethanol is also used as a strong antiseptic and a good antibacterial agent. It is widely used in dermatological cosmetics alongside natural antiseptics such as chamomile, sage, and calendula.
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TocopherolAntioxidant
Roles: Skin conditioning, Fragrance
UV Protection
Anti-aging
Regeneration
Comedogenic rating [ 3 ]
Good for dry skin
Tocopherol is one of the most popular active ingredients in cosmetics. It’s a brilliant component. It's a form of Vitamin E and it does help the skin and hair a lot. It conditions the skin, strengthens its barrier, protects it against harm, and makes the tone even. It also helps your skin and hair to resist the sun. It’s safe but can irritate sensitive skin sometimes. Pay attention to concentration!
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Citric AcidAntioxidantAHA
Roles: Buffering, Chelating, Fragrance, Masking
Cleansing
Exfoliating
Soothing
Lightening
Lifting
Hair growth stimulating
Citric Acid is one of the AHAs and it is a super useful component! It’s a great antioxidant. It acts as a soft peeling that removes dead cells and kills bacteria. It becomes even more effective if used with other cosmetic acids. Combined formulations are more active, but can irritate sensitive skin if used too often. The component can also whiten the skin and remove dark areas.
It can be an irritator due to its naturally lower pH level of 2.2. But manufacturers also use it as a pH adjuster so in most cases you will not have any issues.
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Sodium Citrate
Roles: Buffering, Chelating, Masking
Sodium Citrate is a water-soluble soft organic surfactant with strong stabilizing and conditioning effects. It helps to produce foam and lowers the negative impact of hard water on your skin and hair. It also helps to regulate the pH level of the product. It’s a natural ingredient and it’s safe for most people. It’s used in food (additive number E331).
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Hexyl Cinnamal
Roles: Fragrance, Masking
Allergens
Hexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance component that gives the product pleasant cinnamon and light jasmine aroma. It’s also used to enhance other fragrances. It’s considered a skin sensitizer and manufacturers have to call out this component on an ingredient statement.