Water is a great solvent. It’s neutral and doesn’t provide any strong positive or negative effects. It just helps components to mix better and to transport active components.
Cetearyl Alcohol is used mostly for formulation purposes. It’s a very good emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer. It helps the ingredients mix better and it makes the product spread on your skin evenly. It also makes the product thicker. It doesn’t belong to harmful alcohols and it will not dry your skin.
3
Dimethicone
Roles: Skin conditioning, Antifoaming, Emollient
Silicones
Dimethicone is the most popular silicone. It makes the skin softer and forms a film adding smooth and silky feeling. This film not only improves how the skin feels but also works as a protective barrier. It also improves the visual appearance of your skin by filling small wrinkles. That's why some people think dimethicone removes wrinkles. Actually, it does not. It's just a visual effect.
One of the most important characteristics of this component is that it helps to spread other ingredients evenly on the surface to provide good coverage. It's very important because you want all your skin cells to receive an equal proportion of the components.
Dimethicone is considered as safe, but remember that it is rather difficult to wash off! This may lead to clogged pores and acne if you use it too often and don't wash off quite well.
Glycerin is one of the most outstanding and helpful skincare components. It's used in many skincare products because it works and provides notable results. It's one of the best moisturizers. Molecules of Glycerin can absorb water and deliver it into deep layers of the skin making it hydrated.
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil protects the skin from dryness. It’s a very effective organic moisturizer. In hair care, it creates a protective film around hair protecting it. It has slight comedogenic activity, meaning the product may clog pores if there is too much Coconut oil in it.
Lactic Acid is the most popular and the least aggressive acid among all the AHAs. Unlike Salicylic and Glycolic acids which can irritate your skin, Lactic Acid will hardly cause any problems. The combination of its soft action and effectiveness makes it a real brilliant. It exfoliates dead cells, makes the skin tone even, clears pores, kills bacteria, moisturizes the skin and helps to keep water, helps the cells to produce Hyaluronic Acid. It also works as a strong antioxidant and anti-aging component.
It's a great acid for getting familiar with the world of AHAs. If you want to start using "fruit acids" but struggling for some reason, try to use Lactic Acid first. If your skin accepts it well, you can try stronger acids.
Roles: Binding, Emulsifying, Emulsion stabilizer, Film former, Viscosity controlling
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Phenoxyethanol
Roles: Fragrance, Preservative
Antiseptic
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most popular preservatives. It kills bacteria and makes the product live longer. Manufacturers like this ingredient because it can dissolve in any liquid, even in oils.
Another purpose of this component is the fixation of aromas in perfumery. Phenoxyethanol is also used as a strong antiseptic and a good antibacterial agent. It is widely used in dermatological cosmetics alongside natural antiseptics such as chamomile, sage, and calendula.
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Fragrance
Roles: Deodorant, Fragrance, Masking
Fragrances
Fragrance is a mix of chemical ingredients (usually 20-30 chemicals but up to 200 sometimes) that help the product to smell better. It can hide many bad things. Synthetic fragrances may contain many different chemicals, but manufacturers don’t want to reveal each of them for some reason and hide them behind the word "Fragrance".
Dipropylene Glycol is a solvent, emulsifier, viscosity decreasing, and masking agent. It helps to extract useful chemicals from plants and leaves, making natural components in a product more effective. It also helps to hydrate the skin. Considered safe for health and doesn't irritate the skin in common concentration.
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Polyurethane-39
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Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Roles: Skin conditioning, Antistatic, Film former, Hair conditioning, Viscosity controlling
Hair conditioning
Hair gloss
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is a very good conditioner. Used mostly in haircare products. It can recover damaged hair and make them shine much better.
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Disodium EDTA
Roles: Chelating, Viscosity controlling
Disodium EDTA is an emulsion stabilizer and chelating agent. It deactivates the metal ions preventing them from reacting with other active ingredients. It improves the stability of a cosmetic formula and keeps the product’s consistency, texture, and pH unchanged. It doesn’t have any skincare effects and is used for formulation purposes only.
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PEG-45m
19
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
Roles: Skin conditioning, Fragrance
UV Protection
Moisturizing
Softening
Soothing
Hair strengthening
Hair growth stimulating
Malassezia unsafe
Good for dry skin
Bad for oily skin
Sweet Almond Oil is rich in Vitamin D, Vitamin E, and different minerals. It’s a very effective soothing component known from ancient times. It helps to protect the skin from the sun, make it softer and heal small wounds.
Cetrimonium Chloride is used mostly for formulation purposes and doesn't provide any strong skincare effects. Used mostly to help mix different components together. It also helps to increase the shelf life of the product. CIR safety report tells that this ingredient was found to be “…safe for use in rinse‐off products and …safe for use at concentrations of up to 0.25% in leave‐on products.”
In the European Union (EU), cetrimonium chloride and steartrimonium chloride were reported to be used as a preservative at up to 0.1%. They are also used in rinse-off hair care products at up to 2.5%, leave-on hair products at up to 1.0%, and in leave-on facial cream products at up to 0.5%.
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PEG-7 Propylheptyl Ether
PEG
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Magnesium Nitrate
Roles: Hair conditioning
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Sodium Chloride
Roles: Flavoring, Viscosity controlling
Antiseptic
Sodium Chloride is a very famous ingredeint also known as Salt. Yes, it’s the same salt you can find on your table. In cosmetics, it is used as a preservative helping the product to live longer. It is also used as a peeling agent in different scrubs. Human contact with this element since ancient times and that's why it is 100% safe.
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Silica
Silica is used for improving texture of the product. It helps the product to spread out evenly. Very often it’s used in different exfoliants as an abrasive. It's safe and non-toxic.
Benzoic acid is a preservative and pH adjuster. Human skin accepts this component very nicely. It doesn’t cause irritation or other negative reactions. In 2017 there was a Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel meeting that confirmed the safety of this ingredient in skincare.
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Tocopheryl AcetateVitaminsAntioxidant
Roles: Skin conditioning
Softening
Nutrifying
Tocopheryl Acetate is a form of Vitamine E. It’s used as an alternative to Tocopherol because it is more stable in the formulation. It has all the positive effects of Tocopherol plus better stability. It’s a brilliant component. It conditions and nourishes the skin helping it to resist aging. It also helps to protect the skin from the sun. High concentrations of Tocopheryl Acetate can lead to irritation and allergic reactions.
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Dehydroacetic Acid
Roles: Preservative
Antiseptic
Dehydroacetic Acid is a nice preservative. It has potent antifungal and antibacterial properties. It’s not toxic and it doesn’t irritate the skin. Used to increase the shelf life of a product.
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Methylchloroisothiazolinone
Roles: Preservative
30
Magnesium Chloride
Roles: Viscosity controlling
Soothing
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Methylisothiazolinone
Roles: Preservative
32
Ethylhexylglycerin
Roles: Skin conditioning, Deodorant
Moisturizing
Softening
Antiseptic
Deodorant
Ethylhexylglycerin makes the skin softer, smoother and more hydrated. It acts deeply but without any heavy or sticky feeling. In haircare products, it works as a conditioner and scalp cleanser. It is safe but only in concentration below 8% in rinse-off products and below 2% in leave-on products. Can be an irritator in higher concentrations. In general, this component is great if you see it somewhere at the bottom of the list.
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Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Roles: Skin conditioning, Antistatic, Film former, Hair conditioning
Moisturizing
Softening
Hair strengthening
Hair structure improvement
Hair gloss
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Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel ExtractAntioxidant
Roles: Skin conditioning, Abrasive, Emollient
Softening
Anti-aging
Lifting
Elasticity improvement
Nutrifying
Rejuvenation
Regeneration
Protection
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BHTAntioxidant
Roles: Fragrance, Masking
BHT is a stabilizer and antioxidant. It helps to keep the product fresh for a long time, preventing the oxidization of components. It is stable even in high temperatures, that’s why it’s an essential component in some products. It also protects the skin from free radicals. As for safety, the component isn't researched very well. It’s considered to be safe in low concentrations. But there is still not enough scientific data collected.
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PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Roles: Cleansing, Fragrance, Surfactant
Malassezia unsafe
PEG
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Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil
Roles: Skin conditioning, Emollient
Malassezia unsafe
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil is an ingredient known from ancient times. It’s the oil people receive from Sunflower Seeds and use for different purposes, including cooking. It contains a lot of Lenoic acid which moisturizes the skin, makes it softer, and reduces inflammation. The oil also works as an occlusive agent that forms a protective film and helps to keep skin hydrated.
As for haircare, it’s the second most popular basic oil used in haircare products. It helps to lower hair fragility and make hair softer.
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Sodium Benzoate
Roles: Fragrance, Masking, Preservative
Antifungal
Antiseptic
Sodium Benzoate doesn’t have any great skincare effects and is used for formulation purposes. It’s a corrosion inhibitor, fragrance ingredient, and preservative. It is not a broad-spectrum preservative and it’s used with other preservatives for good efficiency. It’s safe, but people with eczema or a history of skin allergies should use this component with attention.
Honey is a nice skincare component known for ages. It can reduce inflammation which is good for people with different skin problems. It can destroy microbes and bacterias helping to fight with skin infections. It helps to improve regeneration and heal small wounds. It's not only good anti-damage and soothing component but also a nice moisturizer. Remember, that despite all the benifits Honey is a food allergen...
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Potassium Sorbate
Roles: Fragrance, Preservative
Antifungal
Antiseptic
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative that increases the shelf life of the product. It’s a great alternative to parabens. That's why manufacturers like to use this component. It is safe in concentration of up to 10% but it is used in cosmetics in amounts of 1% or even lower.
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract is an organic herbal extract derived from Rosemary. It contains a lot of useful chemicals like rosmarinic acid, caffeic acid, betulinic acid, carnosic acid, ursolic acid, carnosol, and camphor. These chemicals help the ingredient to lower inflammation, kill bacteria and fungus, and decrease pain. It’s a great antioxidant to counter signs of aging. It helps tighten the skin and improves elasticity. It also helps to get rid of small wrinkles and fine lines.
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Benzyl Benzoate
Roles: Antimicrobial, Fragrance, Masking, Solvent
Allergens
Benzyl Benzoate is a potentially harmful fragrance ingredient. It's one of the “EU 26 fragrances” that has to be labeled separately because of allergen potential. It's a good idea to avoid this component if you have sensitive skin.
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Cinnamal
Roles: Flavoring, Fragrance, Masking
UV Protection
Allergens
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Eugenol
Roles: Fragrance, Masking
Allergens
Eugenol is a fragrance and one of the ingredients you should use carefully. It is in the list of 26 European Union fragrances that have to be labeled separately because of allergen potential. Laboratory studies show that the component is cytotoxic even at low concentrations. But no studies were performed on humans. In general, it's not the best skincare component.
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Limonene
Roles: Fragrance
Antiseptic
Allergens
Limonene provides a nice and fresh citrus scent. It can be found in many plants. It's used in cosmetics because of its low price and pleasant smell.