
Sesderma Retises 0.25 is a product with 52 ingredients: Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Pentylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate SE, PEG-100 Stearate, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Avobenzone and 42 more.
Contains: AHA - Citric Acid; BHA - Salicylic Acid; Vitamins - Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Palmitate), Retinol (Vitamin A), Tocopheryl Acetate; Retinoids - Retinol (Vitamin A); Antioxidant - Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Palmitate), BHT, Citric Acid, Lecithin, Retinol (Vitamin A), Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate;
Organic score: 17% natural, 69% chemical. Vegan - No; Cruelty free - No; Reef safe - No;
Positive effects
Concerns
INCI - Full Breakdown
Water is a great solvent. It’s neutral and doesn’t provide any strong positive or negative effects. It just helps components to mix better and to transport active components.
Pentylene Glycol is a great replacement for Propylene Glycol. It has very similar characteristics but it’s derived from plants (usually from corn). Natural cosmetics lovers will find this component very useful. It enhances the moisturizing effect of cosmetic products, improves the efficiency of preservatives and it’s an effective emulsifier. It’s approved by ECOCERT and COSMOS so it’s considered to be 100% safe and can be used in vegan products.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. It’s responsible for making your skin soft and improving product thickness. It makes the product easier to apply and feel richer. Though it contains the word “Alcohol” in its title, the component doesn’t belong to harmful alcohols. That’s why a product with this component can still be marked as Alcohol-free. Usually, manufacturers receive this component from coconut or palm oil.

Glyceryl Stearate SE is a nice moisturizing ingredient. It hydrates the upper layers of the skin and fills small wrinkles. In haircare products, it's used for making hair softer.
Peg-100 Stearate is a good emulsifier that makes the ingredients mix nicely. It also makes the skin soft and moisturized. Peg-100 Stearate is also known for its cleansing effect. CIR Expert Panel marked this ingredient as safe.

Propylene Glycol is a useful componet with many positive effects. It’s a very good moisturizer. It helps to deliver ingredients into deeper layers of the skin. It creates a protective layer on the skin preventing water loss. The component is researched very well and doesn’t have notable side effects. It’s used even for making food.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient that also hydrates the skin without leaving a fatty film. When applied, the component feels smooth and light. In haircare products, it’s also used for hydrating purposes. It makes hair silky, lowers tangling, and makes hair smooth.
It’s safe for most people, except for people with allergic reactions to coconut or palm oil because these oils are usually used for producing the component.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is mostly used as formulation component. It gives the product a soft and silky but non-greasy feeling. As for the skin benefits, it's an emollient – it makes the skin softer and more hydrated. It also helps to kill bacteria and increase the product’s shelf life.
Avobenzone is the only chemical UV-protection component with a broad spectrum coverage. It can help to block both UVA I and UVA II rays. It's safe and it is allowed to use at a 3% concentration in the USA and a 5% concentration in the EU countries.
There is one problem: avobenzone loses efficiency when exposed to the sun. If you are outside, it loses 36% of its ability to block UV rays an hour after application. That's why it's recommended to reapply sunscreen every 2 hours.
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