Avobenzone is the only chemical UV-protection component with a broad spectrum coverage. It can help to block both UVA I and UVA II rays. It's safe and it is allowed to use at a 3% concentration in the USA and a 5% concentration in the EU countries.
There is one problem: avobenzone loses efficiency when exposed to the sun. If you are outside, it loses 36% of its ability to block UV rays an hour after application. That's why it's recommended to reapply sunscreen every 2 hours.
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Water
Roles: Solvent
Water is a great solvent. It’s neutral and doesn’t provide any strong positive or negative effects. It just helps components to mix better and to transport active components.
Butylene Glycol is a very popular synthetic alcohol. It helps the product to absorb deeper and faster. It is also a solvent for other ingredients. As for the skin benefits, it helps to attract water and helps to make the skin softer.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. It’s responsible for making your skin soft and improving product thickness. It makes the product easier to apply and feel richer. Though it contains the word “Alcohol” in its title, the component doesn’t belong to harmful alcohols. That’s why a product with this component can still be marked as Alcohol-free. Usually, manufacturers receive this component from coconut or palm oil.
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PEG-100 Stearate
Roles: Cleansing, Surfactant
Moisturizing
Softening
Malassezia unsafe
PEG
Peg-100 Stearate is a good emulsifier that makes the ingredients mix nicely. It also makes the skin soft and moisturized. Peg-100 Stearate is also known for its cleansing effect. CIR Expert Panel marked this ingredient as safe.
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Glyceryl Stearate SE
Roles: Emulsifying, Surfactant
Moisturizing
Softening
Comedogenic rating [ 3 ]
Bad for oily skin
Glyceryl Stearate SE is a nice moisturizing ingredient. It hydrates the upper layers of the skin and fills small wrinkles. In haircare products, it's used for making hair softer.
Stearic Acid doesn’t belong to aggressive acids. It’s a fatty acid that can be found in Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, and many natural butters and oils. The component is mostly used for formulation purposes. It makes the product spread and feel better. It’s one of the most important fatty acids in our skin cells.
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Dimethicone
Roles: Skin conditioning, Antifoaming, Emollient
Silicones
Dimethicone is the most popular silicone. It makes the skin softer and forms a film adding smooth and silky feeling. This film not only improves how the skin feels but also works as a protective barrier. It also improves the visual appearance of your skin by filling small wrinkles. That's why some people think dimethicone removes wrinkles. Actually, it does not. It's just a visual effect.
One of the most important characteristics of this component is that it helps to spread other ingredients evenly on the surface to provide good coverage. It's very important because you want all your skin cells to receive an equal proportion of the components.
Dimethicone is considered as safe, but remember that it is rather difficult to wash off! This may lead to clogged pores and acne if you use it too often and don't wash off quite well.
Betaine is used a lot in “organic” skincare products. It is a good moisturizer that not only hydrates the skin but also strengthens the cell membrane. This helps to lower the water loss over time. It also softens the skin and reduces irritation and redness. It’s often used at a 3-5% concentration depending on the product.
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Zinc Aspartate
Roles: Skin conditioning, Biocide
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Retinol (Vitamin A)VitaminsAntioxidant
Roles: Skin conditioning
Nutrifying
Hair structure improvement
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Roles: Skin conditioning, Fragrance
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient that also hydrates the skin without leaving a fatty film. When applied, the component feels smooth and light. In haircare products, it’s also used for hydrating purposes. It makes hair silky, lowers tangling, and makes hair smooth.
It’s safe for most people, except for people with allergic reactions to coconut or palm oil because these oils are usually used for producing the component.
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Persea Gratissima (Avocado) OilAntioxidant
Roles: Skin conditioning
Moisturizing
Softening
Soothing
Anti-aging
Nutrifying
Regeneration
Hair follicle nutrition
Comedogenic rating [ 3 ]
Good for dry skin
Bad for oily skin
Avocado oil is a natural ingredient with an excellent rejuvenating and moisturizing effect. It's so effective because it contains a lot of squalene - a very strong chemical that protects the skin and helps to keep it hydrated. It's also a nice antioxidant that helps to slower aging. Avocado oil also contains different vitamins (A, B, E), lecithin, and beta-carotene.
Caffeine stimulates all the processes inside skin cells. It's very effective for reducing swelling on the face (especially great for under the eyes area). The effectiveness depends on the concentration, the more component you apply the better the effect will be.
It also tones up the skin making it look younger. It's great for dry skin because it stimulates the synthesis of cholesterol, a chemical that helps to form a protective layer on the surface of the epidermis.
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Siloxanetriol Alginate
Roles: Skin conditioning
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Methylsilanol Mannuronate
Roles: Skin conditioning, Antistatic
31
Phospholipids
Roles: Skin conditioning
Good for dry skin
Phospholipids help to hydrate the skin and recover the lipid balance. If the skin lacks this component it can become dry. The component makes cell membranes more difficult to damage and this affects the overall health of the skin.
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Tocopheryl AcetateVitaminsAntioxidant
Roles: Skin conditioning
Softening
Nutrifying
Tocopheryl Acetate is a form of Vitamine E. It’s used as an alternative to Tocopherol because it is more stable in the formulation. It has all the positive effects of Tocopherol plus better stability. It’s a brilliant component. It conditions and nourishes the skin helping it to resist aging. It also helps to protect the skin from the sun. High concentrations of Tocopheryl Acetate can lead to irritation and allergic reactions.
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Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A Palmitate)Vitamins
Roles: Skin conditioning
Softening
Anti-aging
Regeneration
Hair structure improvement
Malassezia unsafe
Comedogenic rating [ 3 ]
Good for dry skin
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Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Palmitate)VitaminsAntioxidant
Roles: Fragrance, Masking
Lightening
Nutrifying
Malassezia unsafe
Comedogenic rating [ 2 ]
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a derivative of ascorbic and palmitic acids. It's a fat-soluble form of Vitamin C. It penetrates into the skin through cell membranes. Acts as an antioxidant. Due to its antioxidant properties, it is considered a rejuvenating vitamin. Controls the production of collagen in cells. Non-irritant at neutral pH.
Panthenol is a proud member of a league of the best-performing components. It's a stable form of Vitamin B5 and is also known as Pro-Vitamin B5. It’s a very good and effective component for hydration, healing, and soothing irritated skin. It works so soft and gentle that it’s even recommended for people with skin problems like eczema.
In haircare products it’s used for protecting the fiber. It’s researched very well and doesn’t have any negative side effects.
Sodium PCA is a nice moisturizer and skin softener. It contains amino acids and Sodium Hyaluronate. It’s part of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) that is responsible for keeping the outer layer of the skin hydrated. If you don’t have enough NMF you can face dryness even if you don’t have other skin problems.
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Polyester-8
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Carbomer
Roles: Emulsion stabilizer, Gel forming, Viscosity controlling
Moisturizing
Carbomer is used for formulation purposes. It helps to control the viscosity and flow of a product. It’s considered safe but only if it’s well purified. Poorly purified carbomers may contain benzol which may lead to irritation.
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Aminomethyl Propanol
Roles: Buffering
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Disodium EDTA
Roles: Chelating, Viscosity controlling
Disodium EDTA is an emulsion stabilizer and chelating agent. It deactivates the metal ions preventing them from reacting with other active ingredients. It improves the stability of a cosmetic formula and keeps the product’s consistency, texture, and pH unchanged. It doesn’t have any skincare effects and is used for formulation purposes only.
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Phenoxyethanol
Roles: Fragrance, Preservative
Antiseptic
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most popular preservatives. It kills bacteria and makes the product live longer. Manufacturers like this ingredient because it can dissolve in any liquid, even in oils.
Another purpose of this component is the fixation of aromas in perfumery. Phenoxyethanol is also used as a strong antiseptic and a good antibacterial agent. It is widely used in dermatological cosmetics alongside natural antiseptics such as chamomile, sage, and calendula.
Caprylyl Glycol is a vey popular skincare ingredient. It makes the product spread better and feel better on your skin. It’s a preservative and it improves the effect of other preservatives. It’s also a humectant which helps to retain water. It’s good for keeping your skin in good shape. But manufacturers use it as a supporting component rather than the main one.
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Chlorphenesin
Roles: Antimicrobial, Biocide, Preservative
Chlorphenesin is a popular preservative. It doesn’t provide any skin-related positive effects and is used to prevent bacterial growth inside a product. It’s a weak preservative but works much better with silicones.
Allowed concentration: no more than 0,3% for European Union countries.
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Silica
Silica is used for improving texture of the product. It helps the product to spread out evenly. Very often it’s used in different exfoliants as an abrasive. It's safe and non-toxic.
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Titanium Dioxide
Roles: Colorant
UV Protection
Titanium Dioxide is a very effective sunscreen. It belongs to physical sunscreens, meaning it reflects the UV rays like a mirror. The component is a mineral with white color. That’s why it’s also used in different powders as a pigment or brightener.
The component can be both safe and unsafe. It’s reported to be possibly carcinogenic to humans when inhaled. That’s why we don’t recommend using products where TiO2 is used in the form of powder and can be inhaled.
Sometimes it can be a nanoparticle. We recommend avoiding this form because it’s not researched well enough. A safer option is to use a non-nano form.