Water is a great solvent. It’s neutral and doesn’t provide any strong positive or negative effects. It just helps components to mix better and to transport active components.
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Glycolic AcidAHA
Roles: Buffering, Exfoliant
Cleansing
Exfoliating
Anti-aging
Lightening
Good for oily skin
Glycolic Acid is the most researched AHA with proven efficiency and it’s a super powerful component. It’s a great exfoliator, meaning it helps to remove dead skin cells preventing bacterial growth, and make your skin look fresh and smooth. It helps to remove dark spots and areas, making skin tone even. But the most serious reason for using this component is that it helps to produce collagen, which is very important for keeping your skin healthy. This is what makes Glycolic Acid so special. Pay attention, that using any AHA makes your skin more UV sensitive. It’s very important to use good sunscreen after applying AHA.
Glycerin is one of the most outstanding and helpful skincare components. It's used in many skincare products because it works and provides notable results. It's one of the best moisturizers. Molecules of Glycerin can absorb water and deliver it into deep layers of the skin making it hydrated.
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Sodium Hydroxide
Roles: Buffering
Sodium Hydroxide is used mostly for formulation purposes. It helps to hold the pH level of a product. It also works as a chemical exfoliator that removes dead cells. Usually concentration of this component is low in skin care products and it’s used mostly for adjusting pH.
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Propanediol
Roles: Solvent, Viscosity controlling
Moisturizing
Hair conditioning
Propanediol is a good solvent, emollient and humectant. It helps to moisturize the skin and prevent moisture loss. In haircare products, it conditions hair and improves absorption of the product.
Butylene Glycol is a very popular synthetic alcohol. It helps the product to absorb deeper and faster. It is also a solvent for other ingredients. As for the skin benefits, it helps to attract water and helps to make the skin softer.
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Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
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Pentylene Glycol
Roles: Skin conditioning, Solvent
Moisturizing
Hair conditioning
Pentylene Glycol is a great replacement for Propylene Glycol. It has very similar characteristics but it’s derived from plants (usually from corn). Natural cosmetics lovers will find this component very useful. It enhances the moisturizing effect of cosmetic products, improves the efficiency of preservatives and it’s an effective emulsifier. It’s approved by ECOCERT and COSMOS so it’s considered to be 100% safe and can be used in vegan products.
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Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Roles: Bulking, Viscosity controlling
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Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil
Roles: Skin conditioning, Deodorant, Emollient
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Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Roles: Skin conditioning, Emollient
Comedogenic rating [ 3 ]
Good for dry skin
Bad for oily skin
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Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch
Roles: Binding, Bulking, Viscosity controlling
Soothing
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Roles: Skin conditioning, Fragrance
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient that also hydrates the skin without leaving a fatty film. When applied, the component feels smooth and light. In haircare products, it’s also used for hydrating purposes. It makes hair silky, lowers tangling, and makes hair smooth.
It’s safe for most people, except for people with allergic reactions to coconut or palm oil because these oils are usually used for producing the component.
Squalane is a more stable equivalent of Squalene. It is a very important component of our skin. It’s a major part of natural sebum that forms a protection barrier on the skin's surface. If the barrier isn’t strong enough, your skin will become more sensitive. Squalanehelps to keep skin hydrated, protects it from the negative impact of the environment, lowers irritation, stimulates regeneration, and removes dryness. It is accepted by our skin very well and will not cause allergic reactions.
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Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed OilAntioxidant
Roles: Skin conditioning, Emollient
Elasticity improvement
Nutrifying
Good for oily skin
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil is a very strong antioxidant and it's a very valuable skincare component. It's great for treating acne. It helps to deliver vitamins into the deep layers of your skin. It improves elasticity and helps to treat wrinkles.
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Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil
Roles: Skin conditioning, Emollient
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Phenethyl Alcohol
Roles: Fragrance, Masking, Preservative
Antifungal
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Sodium Benzoate
Roles: Fragrance, Masking, Preservative
Antifungal
Antiseptic
Sodium Benzoate doesn’t have any great skincare effects and is used for formulation purposes. It’s a corrosion inhibitor, fragrance ingredient, and preservative. It is not a broad-spectrum preservative and it’s used with other preservatives for good efficiency. It’s safe, but people with eczema or a history of skin allergies should use this component with attention.
Citric Acid is one of the AHAs and it is a super useful component! It’s a great antioxidant. It acts as a soft peeling that removes dead cells and kills bacteria. It becomes even more effective if used with other cosmetic acids. Combined formulations are more active, but can irritate sensitive skin if used too often. The component can also whiten the skin and remove dark areas.
It can be an irritator due to its naturally lower pH level of 2.2. But manufacturers also use it as a pH adjuster so in most cases you will not have any issues.
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Disodium EDTA
Roles: Chelating, Viscosity controlling
Disodium EDTA is an emulsion stabilizer and chelating agent. It deactivates the metal ions preventing them from reacting with other active ingredients. It improves the stability of a cosmetic formula and keeps the product’s consistency, texture, and pH unchanged. It doesn’t have any skincare effects and is used for formulation purposes only.
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C15-23 Alkane
Roles: Solvent
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GluconolactoneAntioxidantPHA
Roles: Fragrance, Humectant, Solvent
Moisturizing
Acne fighting
Lifting
Gluconolactone belongs to poly hydroxy acids (PHA). It’s very similar to AHAs chemically, that’s why it is usually presented as a «Next Generation AHA». It has all the benefits of AHA but it doesn’t irritate the skin. It’s a strong natural antioxidant which is as strong as Tocopherol or Ascorbic Acid.
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Lactobionic AcidPHA
Roles: Buffering
Moisturizing
Regeneration
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Mandelic AcidAHA
Roles: Antimicrobial
Cleansing
Antiseptic
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Decyl Glucoside
Roles: Cleansing, Emulsion stabilizer, Surfactant
Cleansing
Decyl glucoside is a surfactant. It provides degreasing and wetting effects. It removes dirt and sebum gently. It doesn’t irritate the skin but at the same time, it’s an effective cleanser. It’s considered to be the safest among all the other surfactants.
Phospholipids help to hydrate the skin and recover the lipid balance. If the skin lacks this component it can become dry. The component makes cell membranes more difficult to damage and this affects the overall health of the skin.
AHA
