
Neostrata 15% Vitamin C + PHA Serum is a product with 14 ingredients: Propanediol, Water, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Gluconolactone, Citric Acid, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Chrysanthemum Parthenium (Feverfew) Flower/Leaf/Stem Juice, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Hydroxide and 4 more.
Contains: AHA - Citric Acid; PHA - Gluconolactone; Vitamins - Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C); Antioxidant - Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Gluconolactone, Citric Acid;
Organic score: 21% natural, 64% chemical. Vegan - No; Cruelty free - No; Reef safe - Yes;
Positive effects
Concerns
INCI - Full Breakdown
Propanediol is a good solvent, emollient and humectant. It helps to moisturize the skin and prevent moisture loss. In haircare products, it conditions hair and improves absorption of the product.
Water is a great solvent. It’s neutral and doesn’t provide any strong positive or negative effects. It just helps components to mix better and to transport active components.

Vitamin C is known for its strong antioxidant activity. It helps to slow down aging processes. The other positive effect of this ingredient is that it helps to make skin tone even. It's a great ingredient to counter dark areas and uneven skin tone. It's well-researched and considered safe. But it's acid and can irritate the skin if used too often.
Gluconolactone belongs to poly hydroxy acids (PHA). It’s very similar to AHAs chemically, that’s why it is usually presented as a «Next Generation AHA». It has all the benefits of AHA but it doesn’t irritate the skin. It’s a strong natural antioxidant which is as strong as Tocopherol or Ascorbic Acid.
Citric Acid is one of the AHAs and it is a super useful component! It’s a great antioxidant. It acts as a soft peeling that removes dead cells and kills bacteria. It becomes even more effective if used with other cosmetic acids. Combined formulations are more active, but can irritate sensitive skin if used too often. The component can also whiten the skin and remove dark areas.
It can be an irritator due to its naturally lower pH level of 2.2. But manufacturers also use it as a pH adjuster so in most cases you will not have any issues.
Pentylene Glycol is a great replacement for Propylene Glycol. It has very similar characteristics but it’s derived from plants (usually from corn). Natural cosmetics lovers will find this component very useful. It enhances the moisturizing effect of cosmetic products, improves the efficiency of preservatives and it’s an effective emulsifier. It’s approved by ECOCERT and COSMOS so it’s considered to be 100% safe and can be used in vegan products.
Sodium Hydroxide is used mostly for formulation purposes. It helps to hold the pH level of a product. It also works as a chemical exfoliator that removes dead cells. Usually concentration of this component is low in skin care products and it’s used mostly for adjusting pH.
Functions
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